TIPS & TRICKS

On Lapidary Blades
By Richard Cepurna
October 2022

ELECTROPLATED Generally thin, short life. There are some good electroplated products available but are application specific like our diamond band saw blades, some finger bits and a new generation of sanding/smoothing pads and belts.


NOTCHED RIM What I consider a true lapidary blade. These are thin blades and will provide smooth cuts. Inexpensive and long lived if not abused, these should be on nearly every saw used in a lapidary shop. One reason these blades cut so smooth is the size of the diamond grit embedded in the notches, it is very fine 120 or finer. Compare this with the next two types where it is often 36-80 grit, leaving deep scratches visible to the naked eye. Note, some small diameter blades can be very thin and can cut fingers if held rigidly. For public trim saw use, use thicker 0.03″ or thicker, people are animals.


CONTINUOUS RIM If you feel the need for a thicker blade, but still want a smooth cut, these work fine. More expensive than a notched rim due to amount of diamond and the attachment process, sintered, hot pressed or cold pressed. Watch the thickness on these, which can vary considerably. Typically used in tile and glass trades, there are many designed for lapidary with a finer grade of diamond. CBN blades are typically continuous rim as well. (Cubic boron nitride, a synthetic abrasive).


SEGMENTED RIM Often called turbo blades and they do cut fast. Typically used for dimensional stone, cut-ting concrete or hogging out that scale replica of earth. They can offer wide kerfs, chippy edges and some deep gouging of a slab. Most must be spun at least 2-3x faster for a smooth cut. Buy extra 80-120 grit wheels for the Genies if you use these blades, you will need them. Here is a clue, look at Kingsley North’s saw blade offerings, there is only one segmented blade offered, but it is a lapidary version and costs $600 for a 24” blade.

Cobb County Gem & Mineral Society